South Beach Hits and Hopes: Alta Mare & Provence Grill

The Hit: Alta Mare, Miami Beach

The Alta Mare crew continues to dazzle us in their dashing new digs down the street. There you will find some of the freshest seafood on the beach, all admirably prepared with stunning simplicity. Consider deep-sea caught Golden Tilefish-- sauteed in olive oil and partnered with wilted greens and pureed sunchokes. Or Spanish Mackerel with Swiss Chard. Or Yellowtail Snapper. Calamari, Corvina. Well, you get the idea. Alta Mare is located at 1233 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach, FL 33139. PH 305-532-3061. Make your reservation online at www.opentable.com.

The Hope: Provence Grill, Miami Beach

I'm thrilled to see Provence Grill (Brickell) take over the space formerly known as Alta Mare. A little bit of the South of France in South Beach is a welcome and beautiful thing. Bon chance and bon appetit! Provence Grill is located at 1223 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach, FL 33139. PH 305-531-1600.

Tarnished Spoon Award: Cafe Boulud, Palm Beach, FL

Is Cafe Boulud tried and true? Or just tired and through!?! Three years ago the menu here was inspired. Now it's insipid, unchanged after all these years. Which in and of itself isn't really a problem. It's just that the dishes themselves tend to be lesser versions of their former selves. And the service is just as feeble. Tables are forgotten and patrons are left to refill their own wine glasses. Oh, wait! Not before some wanna-be wine steward runs over at the last minute, miffed that he didn't see you pick up that bottle first. The food? OK, it's fine, but it is now a bit overrated. The wine? Well, need I say more?

Redefining Fine Dining: Michelle Bernstein's at the Omphoy Ocean Resort, Palm Beach, FL

Michelle Bernstein has redefined 'fine dining' in Palm Beach, FL. She's made it vibrant, fun and quite luminous in spite of the restaurant's dark and expansive interior. Sweetbreads were crispy and tender all at once, just like the menu promised. And the turbot was prepared impeccably. Looking around the room, it seemed even the fried chicken was deemed just as fine as foie gras to this smartly dressed casual crowd. Wines are well priced and service was certainly good enough. We'll definitely go back. Michelle Bernstein's Retaurant is located in the Omphoy Ocean Resort, 2842 South Ocean Blvd Palm Beach, FL 33480. PH 561-540-6444. (Tip: The hotel is on the east or ocean side of the street. Addresses here don't follow the rule that all even numbers are on one side of the street and all odd ones are on the other.)